In Love with Lou
Having the job I do, the question I am asked most often (sometimes multiple times a day) is, “where should I go to eat?” From now on, I’ll be blurting out, “Lou!” And there are many reasons as to why…
Lou, the only two-months-old addition to McGavock Pike in East Nashville may have a tiny sign on its adorable exterior, but the enjoyment from dining within is anything but. I had heard the highly acclaimed Mailea Weger had opened a spot described as “part all day brunch, part bar a vin.” Anyone who knows me will tell of my emphatic adoration of brunch and more than mild obsession with wine so that was all it took to lose some tread on the bottom of my heels sprinting over there.
The interior is as quaint and wonderful as the exterior. It feels like walking into a provincial little house in France and the cozy feeling that comes over you as you tuck into a chair preps you for the hospitality to come. The woman who sat us, Lily, was entirely gracious and lovely, taking our drink orders and offering up information on the restaurant without being overbearing or aloof. (Come to find out later she’s the General Manager. Even better.)
The first thing I read when the menu slid in front of me was “breakfast cake and wine - $15.” Sold. It’s at this point I’ve begun contemplating my move here and the logistics of forwarding my mail, so I really hope Lou delivers. Boy did they.
Local roasters might want to slap on some earmuffs, ‘cuz I’ve got something unsavory to say. This was the best cup of coffee I’ve had in any restaurant in Nashville (well, except for maybe Loveless Cafe, of course). Canyon coffee from Los Angeles brewed a blend so smooth I didn’t bother putting anything in it. And as I believe that a proper brunch involves a cocktail with coffee, I opted for the Woodward Spritz – a refreshing blend of rose, hibiscus, lavender, red wine, and prosecco. The use of florals was deft- a perfect compliment to the hyper-balanced beverage, placing my immediate faith in their cocktail program. (The misuse of florals is an easy and all-too-common occurrence, turning an otherwise good drink into something like licking a grandmother’s living room.) Did I mention their petite, yet smart wine list yet? Curated to be tasty and waste-conscious, you can get a glass from a day open bottle at a steal simply because it’s… well, a day old. Heaven forbid (I’ll take another.)
First to the table was the soft scrambled egg and broccolini sandwich, filled with melted fontina, leeks, mustard seeds, and fermented chilis. It’s served like a deli sandwich with a pickle. Though I was quick to think, “that's a bit odd for breakfast. Do I want that?” The answer is yes. The acidic punch is exactly what your palate craves, making me wish they were sliced and on the sandwich itself. The bread also becomes a bit soggy with the chilis, but even with those tiniest of grievances I would order this again in a heartbeat.
Next, I dug into the baked eggs with mole cream, greens, and fermented honey garlic, served with charred wheat sourdough. (I added chorizo and you should follow my lead.) One bite and I informed the server that if they ever take this dish off their menu, I may weep openly in their dining room. I even stole a piece of bread off the sandwich to dip in it when I had scarfed up all the accompanying sourdough. I couldn’t get enough. Basically, there won’t be a morning (or afternoon, for that matter) any time soon that I don’t think about that dish.
Side-note here for fennel bacon. O-M-G. Salty, sweet, spicy, savory…… pollen-y? Whatever. It’s glorious. No matter what you order, GET IT.
Finally, I went ahead and just got a whole freakin’ cake course. The breakfast cake with cacao nibs was topped with bright orange zest and served with a crisp, dry Riesling. The olive oil cake is the daily brainchild of pastry chef Sasha Piligian and at just $5 a slice is positively swoon worthy. This particular day, it had a lemon curd center and frosting lighter than the cloud I was about to float out the door on.
At Lou, as cliché as it might sound, you feel like family that happened to stop by for a meal. It’s worth mentioning that I was there at the last seating, ending their day service, and not once was I meant to feel bad about it. There is skill here – from both sides of the swinging kitchen door – that truly comes from the heart. Lou is now at the top of my personal recommendations list and I can’t wait to return.
