The Deal with Dilution
You may not give a second thought as to whether your cocktail should be shaken or stirred, but the professionals at Le Loup in Germantown certainly do.
It’s all a matter of dilution. That is, lower...
Le Loup & The Art of the Cocktail
This Germantown spot is serious about drinks
My usual martini order is wet, or even 50/50, but sitting inside Le Loup, the ambitious new concept by chef and southern restauranteur Ford Fry (owner of The Optimist downstairs) and staring at a page detailing 7 martini variations throughout its history, I am intrigued to try the Gibson. Typically, a Gibson is a martini with a simple swap of an olive garnish for an onion, but Beverage Manager and NYC bar veteran Kenneth Vanhooser and Beverage Supervisor J.A. Harrison have turned it into more of a dirty martini cousin with the addition of a homemade spiced onion brine.
I ask Kenneth if he’ll tell me what’s in it. “Sure,” he smiles playfully. “We say [it’s a] secret recipe, but we don’t have secrets. We’ll tell anybody what’s in anything at any time. Because nobody will be able to recreate it exactly.” (The brine has celery, carrots, coriander, celery seed, mustard, pickling spices, and saffron and its addition makes this beyond a shadow of a doubt the most delicious Gibson of my life.)
Photo 1: Beverage Manager, Kenneth Vanhooser
Photo 2: Beverage Supervisor, J.A. Harrison
Le Loup opened to early praise in January, with a menu that is compelling and unique. A first of its kind in Nashville, it perfectly walks the line between history and innovation. The menu of 50+ cocktails, is broken down into 7 parts: Original, Classics, Forgotten Classics, Tributes (dedicated to the bars and bartenders that have shaped their careers), Zero Proof, and Spotlight (a rotating feature honoring a selected cocktail through its history). The current Spotlight is on the martini, hence my foray into Gibson territory.
Behind the bar is all about organization and attention to detail. Tinctures, and bitters in small, spotless bottles; syrups, brines, twists, and other garnishes standing at the ready for service, each at the peak of freshness. “The thing that makes Le Loup successful is many hours of prep work the day before and the hours leading up to opening. When you’re trying to execute [a menu this big], you’ve got to make sure the little ‘cock pit’ is set up for success to be able to execute it,” says J.A.
Photo 1: interior booths
Photo 2: Oysters on the half shell, broiled prawns, steak tartare, smoked fish dip, and Le French dip
And for those feeling a bit "intoxicated" by the extensive menu, have no fear. You belong here too. Le Loup was created specifically with you in mind.
“To anyone who seems overwhelmed,” explains J.A.. “we say, ‘you don’t need to get menu fatigue --what do you normally like to drink when you go out? Are you looking for something fruity, sweet, tart, bitter, earthy, herbal, smoky, spicy, floral…? Let me give you what you want. Because at the end of the day, going out and drinking is about your own comfortability. You want to have a good time and not feel talked down to or overwhelmed or out of place. So, we’re here to help make people feel like they’re in place.”
Photo 1: The Fire Within cocktail
Photo 2: Punch a la Romaine
Photo 3: Lift To The Scaffold, n/a cocktail
“If you want a vodka soda, we’re going to make you the best version of a vodka soda you’ve ever had,” adds Kenneth. “Because we’re focused on technique, we’re focused on temperature, all those things…. And that’s how we grasp you into trusting [us]. So, for the next cocktail we recommend, we already have that relationship.”
Kenneth and J.A. are determined to make the cocktails just as approachable as they are. Each menu section is designed to be navigable, with the drinks at the top being light and effervescent and at the bottom, moody and boozy. “So, wherever you fall on the spectrum of drinking, we’ve already laid it out for you,” says Kenneth.
“We also don’t use specific names on the menu to make you feel like we know everything about the category. We just say – gin. Two gins. Three gins, etc. If you want to have that conversation afterwards, we’re happy to talk about it. But you don’t have to [break it down like] this gin is from Japan and this one is English and tases like such and such, you know? You don’t have to make [people] feel like they don’t know anything about anything.”
Photo 1: painting a glass in housemade treacle for the Damage cocktail
Photo 2: the lounge
Clearly, all things at Le Loup are done with intention, and an extra level of purpose and care is taken in the preparation and service of each cocktail. Glassware is chosen based on whether the drink has ice or not, what would be the most aesthetically pleasing, and what would enhance the flavor or aroma; Whether to have ice or not and what shape the ice should be to achieve the desired level of dilution.
Kenneth explains, “everything is meant to be ceremonial. Just like an Asian tea service where you steep for 3 minutes, 4 minutes, 5 minutes, depending on the type of tea… It’s the same thing with shaking; with stirring. We have Parisian shakers, cobbler shakers, Boston shakers… we have stirring vessels, we have cocktails we build-in-glass, we lift the ice to not interrupt with seltzer and bubbles, etc. So, it becomes very ceremonial, making sure that every time you [craft a drink] you’re doing it in a precise way that produces the same outcome.” Tending bar at Le Loup is graceful and pays a pure respect to the art of the cocktail.
Photo 1: firing up an order of bananas foster
Photo 2: bananas foster at Le Loup
The food is purposeful, too. From fresh oysters delivered daily to a line of small plates including clams casino, snapper crudo, foie gras pate, and fried “tots” – beautiful little fried balls covered in freshly melted raclette. The French Dip with wood-roasted and chilled prime rib sliced so thin it melts in your mouth is simply sublime and served with horseradish sauce and beef jus for dipping. And, fittingly, for dessert there’s made-to-order bananas foster, flambeed for your entertainment and delight, smack dab in the middle of the lounge.
Nashville may have been a little late to the party in terms of the cocktail revolution of the 2000s, but now it’s leading the charge. And with places like Le Loup at the forefront, we’re sitting in a very exciting place, indeed. As Kenneth says, “we have an amazing industry here; a comradery and people knowing each other. I think everybody’s working on getting to the next level.”
Cheers, Le Loup, we're glad you're here.
Le Loup
Germantown
leloupnashville.com
@leloupnash
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