Restaurant Review: The Optimist, A Perfect 10
Like a lot of us, we haven’t ventured out to eat much in the past 4 months. But with word that The Optimist opened which happened to be right around the corner from my daughter’s apartment in Germantown, we dug out our dresses, put on some shoes and checked it out.
The evening was everything a night out should be, and everything a restaurant should be. Despite the masks, it felt oddly business as usual. It was comfortably crowded (social distancing with tables enforced) and the service was stellar. Everyone was happy and the food and drink were fantastic. I couldn’t help but think, that that is how a restaurant should feel, before Nashville got over run with tourists and people everywhere, waits and subpar service. Maybe everyone was just happy to be out with a good meal they didn’t have to cook themselves. Nonetheless the evening was all sparkles and smiles. Including the food.
Situated in an old warehouse, formerly the Turner, Day & Woolworth Ax Handle Company (which produced wooden handles for handheld tools), The Optimist is nestled at the base of the Griff apartments and next to Star Rover, a bar/taqueria yet to open (due to COVID restrictions). It’s all cool brick, old wood, industrial chic and quite cozy. It’s a sister restaurant to another location in Atlanta, both brought to us by Chef Ford Fry. (With a slew of restaurants under his belt in Atlanta, and growing in Nashville, you might be discouraged and skeptical about the uniqueness of The Optimist, but rest assured this place is the real deal with it's own character and legit super fresh seafood.) We were escorted to the back patio, a cozy strip nestled beneath the apartment balconies and the main dining room. Lights were strung, seats were comfy.
With the expert guidance of our fabulous, knowledgeable and friendly server Abbey, we hit up a couple dishes from each section of the menu, starting with the oysters. If you're an oyster afficianado, you can't go wrong here. Oysters are flown in fresh daily and inspected and tasted for quality. We had a platter of plump large oysters from Massachusetts, and sweet ones from the Alabama coast served with a simple but perfect mignonette. In addition to the raw oysters, we tried the fried ones with a parsley aioli (perfect for the non oyster lover in the group), and broiled with garlic butter and breadcrumbs. Delicious one and all. But let’s back up a minute to the house rolls which were plopped down in all their golden gorgeousness, drowned in home made butter, honey and Maldon sea salt. I had to watch mine, lest it was stolen.
On to the second course which was a delicious honeydew and cucumber salad splashed with fish sauce and peanuts, a combination we love. Then beautiful meaty tomatoes (sourced locally from “Farmer Dave”) served with “whipped Parmesan” (in a whipped buttermilk base), and basil and garlic chips. A bit rich for my taste, but loved by everyone in our group.
Next came seafood, Grilled Octopus, piquant with pomegranate molasses, white beans and eggplant. As stunning to look at as it was to eat. And Shrimp La Plancha; shrimp with their heads on (a welcome site indeed) doused in a chili butter sauce. We licked our plates.
The entrees came and were completely on point. A rich pompano, (a rich fish not frequently found) fileted and floating in the most delicious tomato sauce and their halibut en papillote (baked in a parchment package) with preserved lemons. Opening the en papillote table side with its waft of aroma is always a nice touch, that maybe they should adapt.
Dessert was a coconut chess pie with chantilly cream. Delightful. We left pleasantly filled, but not stuffed, full of good wine, great company and good cheer. Seafood is a welcome change in landlocked Nashville and The Optimist does it well. Check it out.
Now is quite possibly the best time to eat out. The staff is knowledgeable, happy to be there and full of smiles...behind the masks.