There’s nothing to match the power and versatility of the mighty lemon, whose juice and fragrant zest elevate all manner of sweet and savory things. In this pasta recipe, the lemon is is the star ingredient. “Capelli d’Angelo Olio e Limone” or Olive Oil and Lemon Angel Hair, adapted from the 1997 cookbook Pastissima! Pasta the Italian Way, was simple–deceptively so. There were few ingredients—a sauce comprised of onion (I substituted leeks) cooked in a fair amount of olive oil, mixed with a lot of lemon juice, tossed throughout pasta, and dusted with parmesan. It took mere minutes to make—and was truly delicious. Without question, this pasta would be a fine foundation for a plank of grilled fish, a tender fillet of trout, even a scatter of lump crabmeat. But solo, it is exceptional, light yet rich, with a pleasant tang. Use your best pasta here–DeCecco’s Capellini No.9 has been a constant favorite of mine.