Surrey to Savannah
On vacations, as in life, things are seldom perfect. After hours (days) of googling and researching, the hotel is just a bit noisy, the room is too small, the food is meh. But I can say with the utmost delight and surprise that our accommodations on a recent road trip to Savannah were perfect: the hotel, room, location, street, food and staff. I am referring to the Bellwether House, a luxury hotel living inside a historic 15-room bed and breakfast in the heart of the city.
Savannah, Georgia, is an easy seven-hour trip through Chattanooga and Atlanta, and January was a perfect time to visit with temperatures in the 70s.
The Hotel
In adjoining townhouses built in 1876, the Bellwether House has two wings accessible from multiple entrances. Our room, with a large porch connecting three other rooms, was accessible through two large “waltz out windows” that we flung open to and fro. After a quick text, the amazing staff had coffee waiting for us.
The Food
These days, BnBs (and Airbnbs) rarely, if ever, include breakfast. Maybe coffee and a pastry but seldom more. The Bellwether House is an exception.
Chef Ryan Whyte-Buck has designed a menu with Indian flavors and Southern cooking traditions that is so unique and beautiful it rivals brunch anywhere in town (except at his signature restaurant a few miles away, Folklore).
The first morning we had syrniki, three cottage-cheese-enhanced pancakes served with pineapple, kiwi, cream and syrup. It was accompanied by thick-cut, house-cured smoky bacon with a jaggery sugar glaze so good that we licked our plates. The next morning brought egg bhurji: eggs scrambled with spices and served with saag paneer atop a tender paratha (South Asian pancake). Add the bacon...divine!
Plus, enjoy the daily Champagne sabering. And the croissants sitting under glass at the bar? Take a few of those to go.
The Location
The Bellwether House is located smack dab in the center of the historic district just a block from Forsyth Park. Savannah is full of small parks loaded with majestic oaks draped in Spanish moss and symmetrical walkways. Keep your phone handy for photos but ditch the Google Fit app which will have you walking in circles; enjoy wandering, the best way to take in the city. The parks and antebellum homes are unique to Savannah, as are the cemeteries and mystic lore. (The 1981 Mercer House murder, the subject of the wildly popular book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, no doubt catapults this aspect of the city.)
Savannah is filled with history and stories, but you don’t have to leave the Bellwether to find a few. The front porch that spans the inn (the longest continuous porch in Savannah) will have you chatting with other guests seeking tales of your own.