A Day In Columbia, TN

For many folks, the mention of Columbia, Tennessee (a.k.a. “Mule Town”) elicits thoughts of its famous Mule Day Festival, an annual event so good that it takes four full days to pack it all in. For history nerds, Columbia, Tennessee conjures consideration of James K. Polk, the nation’s eleventh president and the town’s most famous native son. Polk was the guy in charge when the United States manifested all that destiny at Mexico’s expense and became a country stretching from sea to shining sea (and thereby setting in motion a chain of events that led directly to the Civil War).  

But whether one knows of Columbia from Mule Day or from school days -- or is only learning of the historic town’s existence from this article right now -- one thing is common for all: Columbia, Tennessee is an amazing place to be! Consider the following serving suggestion but, of course, feel free to mix and match to suit your tastes.  Columbia has something for everybody. 

Riverwalk Park is a great place to start a downtown walking tour. Not only does the well-kept park provide views of the historic buildings along the opposite bank, but the trails parallel the Duck River, a free-flowing green gem of a stream and one of the most biodiverse rivers in North America. To celebrate the river and its abundance of life, drink a toast to its continued health after crossing the bridge into downtown at your first stop, Asgard Brewing Company.  Located along the river, Asgard is a burgeoning brewery with big plans to construct an observation deck and build a taproom reminiscent of a Viking long hall. But Valhalla need not wait. As the gods would have it, eighteen excellent elixirs already flow from its taps with selections from as far afield as Iceland and Belgium. Delightful beers but, when in Asgard, imbibe as the Asgardians do and make sure to sample the brewery’s own outstanding suds such Voyager, an American pale wheat, and Dragur, an extraordinary, barrel-aged stout gestated 14 months in 11-year-old Tennessee whiskey barrels. (Fair Warning: Making Asgard your first stop on your downtown walking tour could lead to Asgard being the only stop on your downtown walking tour; its beers are that freaking good.  In such case, Edible recommends getting a ride to a charming place to stay the night -- Mike Wolfe’s (American Pickers) Two Lanes Guesthouse on the square, for example -- and continue your downtown walking tour in the morning.) 

From Asgard, it’s a short walk over to the James K. Polk House.  Built in 1816, the house was the residence of Polk when he was a young adult. Today a museum, the home provides a fascinating look at America during this period.

From the Polk House, it’s an easy stroll to the main square, the heart of the Columbia Commercial Historic District.  Anchored by the still very active courthouse, Maury County’s epicenter, a number of shops, restaurants, and boutiques radiate outward in all four directions. The must-visit locations are too many to do justice to here, but you will definitely want to check out these places as you circle the square (or square the circle as the case may be): Muletown Roasted Coffee, Pie Sensations, Ted’s Sporting Goods, and Taps Off Main. Just off the square you'll find Tall Grass Meat Company with a huge selection of meats and other local products and Needle and Grain. 

For those wanting even more of a history fix, there is W7th Company Vintage Photo Gallery with amazing images of the town’s unique past.  For those lamenting the loss of boutique bookstores, such treasure still exists on the square in the form of Duck River Books. (And, for those lamenting the loss of record stores, there is also Variety Records, a vinyl musical Mecca.)

If the idea of lunch at The Parlour isn’t enticing you -- slim chance, their two top sellers are the Smoked Chicken Salad Croissant and the Ultimate Grilled Cheese - two fresh slices of sourdough supporting a melted concoction of cheddar and cream cheese with a hit of garlic -- there is Vanh Dy's Asian Restaurant & Lounge, an upscale establishment serving authentically Laotian and Thai cuisine.  

Visiting the many wonderful places along the square itself could easily fill a day and night, but make sure to save some room for the Muletown Collective and The Dotted Lime.  The former is a collective of artists and artisans and features shops, a café, and even its own taproom, compliments of its indigenous Bad Idea Brewing Company.  As for The Dotted Lime, local lawyer Paul Latta puts it like this before reentering the courthouse: “Nothing titled ‘Edible Nashville Road Trip to Columbia’ would be complete without visiting Paul and Chrissy at the Dotted Lime.”  He’s right. Just two and a half miles from the square and just down the road from the Muletown Collective, The Dotted Lime is a town institution.  A self-deprecating sign reads “Locally sourced water.”  But there is much more than just good humor cooking inside. There is also great food and friendly folks.  Make sure to drop by and tell Paul and Chrissy Edible sent you!