“This refreshing dish can be made with any cucumbers, but a mix is ideal. Persian cucumbers are my favorite. Although their name implies import, they are cultivated across the world, and I see them at many local grocery stores and farmers markets. They are thin-skinned and lack almost all bitterness—I never peel or seed them. They are also relatively small and narrow, and they contain less water than other varieties, making them ideal for just about any preparation. Don’t dress them more than 20 minutes before serving—they go from crisp to soggy when held too long.” — Michelle McKenzie
1. Spoon crème fraîche into a shallow pool on base of a serving platter (or divide among salad plates or shallow bowls). Halve cucumbers lengthwise and slice into 1/2-inch pieces. If you have found Mexican sour gherkins, keep the smallest ones whole and halve the others lengthwise.
2. Place all cucumbers in large bowl and season generously with fine sea salt. Add onions, lemon juice, Banyuls, and olive oil; toss to coat. Taste and adjust seasoning.
3. Add cucumbers to top of crème fraîche, letting the cucumbers tumble from your hands into a fairly even but haphazard layer. Drizzle some remaining vinaigrette all over. Sprinkle with capers and dill; dust with the dill pollen (if using) and flaky sea salt. Serve immediately.
From The Modern Larder: from anchovies to yuzu, a guide to artful and attainable home cooking by Michelle McKenzie. Photography by Rick Poon.
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