City House: Farm to Table

In 2004, Tandy Wilson was a sous chef at Margot Café. One day a farmer walked in with some White Russian Kale (before kale was cool). Tandy regarded it with bewilderment and haphazardly stuck it in a container of water. Three days later he figured he had to cook it. The rest in history—for both kale and Tandy. Fast forward eight years to Chef Tandy Wilson’s City House restaurant where cases of White Russian Kale, hardy and sweet, are used each week. Kale is now celebrated, as is Wilson, who brought home the James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef: Southeast this past spring. While much deserved praise goes to the chef and his staff, Wilson also believes that it’s in large part due to the farmer because excellent ingredients make an excellent meal. That principle has guided him into cultivating a close relationship with certified organic farmers Tally May of Turnbull Creek Farm in Bon Aqua and Tana Comer of Eaton’s Creek Organics in Joelton. In this special collaboration, both farmers are afforded the opportunity to grow year-round in a way that helps the chef while honoring the land.

There is a good in everything—even the side bits (as Wilson calls them): outer cabbage leaves, plant thinnings, beet greens, young carrot greens, imperfect (yet still delectable) vegetables and fruit. For many other chefs, these bits would be destined for the compost bin, but Wilson dives in and uses it all. You’ve heard of “snout-to-tail” use with pork, this is “root-to-leaf,” which contributes to City House’s fragrant stocks, bright pestos and dressings, as well as savory soups and stews. This simpatico relationship also generates Wilson’s creative seasonal dishes such as Cavatelli with Dragon’s Tongue beans, late summer tomatoes, and pecorino, or the acorn squash with sorghum glaze, October beans, and biscuit crumbs. And let’s not forget the catfish and grits with red onion agrodolce and kale (courtesy of farmer Tana).