Sixty Vines: A Theme Park with Good Food

September 16, 2021
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The mother church from the dining room

As we have our last (prohibited) drink on the large outdoor seating area next to a faux fire pit outside the boisterous dining room, I can't help but admire the view. A new view for sure, one Nashvillians have never had before. We're on the patio of Sixty Vines directly across from the historic Ryman. The AT&T building looming behind, like Donald Trump behind Hilary. The view was stunning.  But also kind of sad. The voices of the greats who have played The Ryman clashed with the 70's soundtrack piped in on the patio.  The history of the Ryman was palpable and it felt betrayed by the chain restaurant just feet from its majestic doors. How could any place with a sign on the stairs "You're Entering Wine Country" really be here in the heart of Music City? Of course this begs the question of the entire Fifth + Broadway development, which changed the way downtown looked to the point that I thought I was in Times Square, or Chicago, for a moment. (An Apple Store?)  

There are no less than five entrances to Sixty Vines. Don't enter the wrong one or you'll be standing there confused for some time as drone-like servers buzz about completey oblivious to actual customers. It's not their fault, my hunch is they're young, ill trained and ill-equipped to handle large swaths of tourists. The hostess stand has a line of folks equally confused as to where to actually check in. A restaurant with five entrances is probably not where I need to be.  With difficulty as to my reservation, I wander off to a chair in the seating area and pick up a beautiful cookbook. Odd. Cookbooks sitting on all the tables, all different and equally beautiful.  Apparently to enhance the wine "theme." But no one is looking at them. Just their phones and their groups and their selfies. I'm confused, are we suposed to be paying attention to the wine here?  This isn't what Napa feels like. 

 

Photo 1: Thank God there was a sign
Photo 2: Do I need 60 wine taps?
Photo 3: View from one of the entrances, not sure which one

We finally get a table.  A server takes our orders and explains "how things work." Do I want to eat at a place where I have to know "how things work?" The service is lovely and good, but the experience a bit impersonal as we scroll our phones for the menu. (COVID you know.) The food was good. Surprisingly good. The wood grilled shrimp were big and juicy and served with a "sauce" of roasted corn, charred peppers, and black garlic aioli. The Romesco sauce was completely on point with the shishitos, and the smashed crispy fingerlings were indeed crisy and delicious.  Although, the pizza, lackluster. In general, the menu reflects the current food zeitgeist: burrata, charcuterie boards, wood fired pizza, Brussels sprouts and blistered shishitos. They're items you've had someplace else that all start to run together. Oh, the wine. Lots of choices in different serving sizes at different price points. Some good ones for sure. And our server was very knowledgable and on point with the wine. 

The thing is, the food is good at many places. Local places. Places that are owned by individuals that live here and are invested in our community. That might know your name when you walk in. They source from local farmers and create specials based on the season. They are places that employ young people and actually mentor and guide them. And these places need your business right now. 

If you love theme parks and The Cheesecake Factory and don't mind tourists and bachelorette parties, it might be your place. But then again, if you're reading this, that's doubtful. But next time we're on that block, we'll be at the Ryman, inside, far from the maddening crowd. 

Click here for our 2021 Local Restaurant Guide. 

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