GO BIG with Thanksgiving Wine
Edible Nashville
Words by: Calvin Webster
People who pair wine for a living wake up in a cold sweat because of two things: the price of decent Champagne these days and the impossibility of choosing a wine for Thanksgiving. As I am unable to do anything about the former, I’m focusing on the latter. From the sweetness and acidity of cranberry sauce to the mushroom-y umami of green bean casserole, the piled-high Thanksgiving plate asks too much of a single wine. So, what’s a host to do? Simply follow Calvin’s 3 Thoughts for a Thoroughly Thaumaturgical Thanksgiving™.
1. Variety is essential. If you’re planning a coursed meal, serve a different wine with each. But if you’re doing the self-serve, mounded-plate classic, consider setting two glasses at each seat so guests can sample two wines at a given time.
2. More is more. Despite dubious historicity (Puritan “days of thanksgiving” featured more fasting than feasting), Thanksgiving now carries the abundance and generosity of a harvest festival. To match those abundant vibes, my rule is simple: only large-format bottles may be served. Magnums (1.5 liters), double magnums (3L), Rehoboams (4.5–5L), which are called Jeroboams in Bordeaux, Methuselahs (6L), called Imperials there, or even Nebuchadnezzars (15L). Nary a 750ml bottle should be seen at the table.
3. Skip the domestic Cabernet. Cabernet Sauvignon, that is. Cabernet Franc can have a pass. The high-alcohol, high-tannin and heavy oak influences of most domestic Cabs make them a favorite among wine lovers, but they clash with Thanksgiving fare in nearly every possible way. You have 364 other days to drink Cab. Skip Thanksgiving.
As for which wines to secure for your Thanksgiving feast, here are some recommendations from around town:
Pierre Péters, Champagne, “Cuvée de Réserve” Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, NV (1.5L)
A mouthful of a name and a bit on the spendy side (the nature of Champagne these days, as previously lamented), Pierre Péters is a wizard of Chardonnay in the Côte des Blancs. Crisp acidity, impeccable balance and intense flavor make this a food-pairing cheat code that will serve you well through the culinary twists and turns of a typical Thanksgiving meal. Woodland Wine Merchant Sylvan Supply, $165
Peter Lauer, Riesling, “Barrel X,” 2025 (3L)
This Saar superstar celebrated his 20th vintage in style with a boatload of large-format bottles, and a few have found their way to Nashville. As is typical in the greater Mosel, there is some sweetness here, which complements the sugar one finds long before the dessert table. Plus, a 3-liter bottle of Riesling is a dramatic thing—just don’t pour with one hand. Woodland Wine Merchant, $140
Au Bon Climat, Chardonnay, “Sanford & Benedict,” 2012 (1.5L)
Direct from the winery’s cellar, this is a rarity to see in retail anywhere in the U.S. in this format/age combination. The late Jim Clendenen was a California legend whose single-vineyard Chards will hold their own all the way through Thanksgiving’s savory food offerings.
Harvest Wine Market, $215
Marcel Lapierre, Morgon, 2024 (1.5–3L)
Cru Beaujolais is a Thanksgiving classic, and this Morgon (the name of the village, not the person) is perhaps the most reliably brilliant of the classic producers. Bright-red fruit, herbaceous complexity, refreshing acidity and the versatility of lower alcohol make this a pairing powerhouse. With the added choice between magnums and double magnums, what more could you ask?
Woodland Wine Merchant, $140–$275
Domaine de la Terre Rouge, Syrah, “Les Côtes de l’Ouest,” 2016 (1.5L)
One of the original “Rhône Rangers” (so called because of their love for grape varieties like Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre), Bill Easton may be California’s most overlooked winemaker. With his insistence on aging his wines at the winery and releasing only when he feels they have reached their peak, it’s a wonder he’s still in business, particularly given the incredible prices these wines still boast. Don’t miss out on the opportunity—at some point, people are going to catch on.
Midtown Corkdorks, $51.99
Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi, 2012 (1.5L)
Unless you’re the sort to serve beef on turkey day, you probably don’t need this much tannin for a Thanksgiving dinner. But for those who simply must have a full-bodied red (and don’t mind the splurge), Midtown has a few magnums left from the famed Cannubi vineyard—a rare find on the local market. Assuming it’s not still 95°F in November, a glass of this could be a nice way to end the day with the simple pairing of crisp evening air.
Midtown Corkdorks, $378.99
Calvin Webster is a wine writer, consultant, educator and master-of-wine student based in Nashville. When he isn’t wine-ing, he loves cooking complicated dinners and strolling the sidewalks of Germantown with his wife and three kids.
