Before vintage barnwood everything, industrial chic, open kitchens, big open spaces with light, and menus that require a culinary degree to read, there was Sperry’s, Midtown Café, and The Picnic Café. They’re enduring for a reason, not the least of which is their owners and champions. Here is a look at these classics and why they’re still here, relevant and popular as ever.
Midtown Café Of Power and Lemon Artichoke Soup
The first thing you notice when you go to Midtown Café is that the host is Randy Rayburn, the owner. When was the last time the owner seated you at your table? The day we had lunch at this 30 year old landmark Randy hustled through the clamoring lunch crowd seating folks, stopping at tables to chat and answering the phone.
The other thing you notice is the crowd. Definitely a power bunch (I walked in behind Phil Bredesen)– mostly baby bommer-age and well dressed. There are no stained barn wood tables, or metal signs. No laptops or headsets. And the only beards were on the customers. Indeed Midtown Café stands out as a refreshing beacon to a time when lunch was a social and business opportunity done over civilized food. The crowd contains a lot of regulars that have their regular tables, all of which Randy takes care of.
Speaking of the food. It’s equally as comforting and classic: Trout Almondine, Crab Cakes, and Chicken Piccata. We had blackened grouper and shrimp and grits, both a bit of a throwback to the eighties. The fish was served with rice pilaf and a medley (yes we said the word medley) of julienned vegetables. The rice and veggies were the perfect foil to the spicy moist fish. Oh yes, did we mention the Lemon and Artichoke Soup? It’s as classic as Randy.
Sperry’s Of Escargot and Bernaise
Opened by brothers Houston and Dick Thomas in 1974, this Belle Meade classic is now owned by Houston’s son, Al Thomas and wife, Trish. Located on Harding Road, it is unapologetically of the 80’s. Red print carpet and dark wood tables are the décor in the cozy dining room, with not a window to be found. Waiters (mainly male) wear white shirts and black aprons. They know how to pace a meal. No tapas style here with plates brought out “willy nilly” when the kitchen determines. At Sperry’s the diner is king. The menu consists of appetizers, soup, salad, entrees, salad and dessert. In that order. We ate there on a Wednesday night, and the place was hopping. Shrimp bisque and escargot arrived immediately after the red wine was brought in a small decanter to the table. After our appetizers were done, Alvin, our waiter, invited us to go to the salad bar.
The salad bar is true to its 80’s root as well, containing canned black olives, garbanzo beans, onions, cheese and a big bowl of lettuce, mainly iceberg. It is served with all house-made dressings. I chose the green goddess (indeed a green not found in nature) and it was perfect. The crunchy fresh salad was the perfect respite to the creamy shrimp bisque, escargot and steaks to come.
Once we finished our salads, Alvin announced he was placing our order for our steaks to be started. Steaks arrived, perfectly cooked; mine a New York Strip with Béarnaise sauce and grilled shrimp. Health be damned, once in a while a good Béarnaise sauce is just the thing.