As we have our last (prohibited) drink on the large outdoor seating area next to a faux fire pit outside the boisterous dining room, I can’t help but admire the view. A new view for sure, one Nashvillians have never had before. We’re on the patio of Sixty Vines directly across from the historic Ryman. The AT&T building looming behind, like Donald Trump behind Hilary. The view was stunning. But also kind of sad. The voices of the greats who have played The Ryman clashed with the 70’s soundtrack piped in on the patio. The history of the Ryman was palpable and it felt betrayed by the chain restaurant just feet from its majestic doors. How could any place with a sign on the stairs “You’re Entering Wine Country” really be here in the heart of Music City? Of course this begs the question of the entire Fifth + Broadway development, which changed the way downtown looked to the point that I thought I was in Times Square, or Chicago, for a moment. (An Apple Store?)
There are no less than five entrances to Sixty Vines. Don’t enter the wrong one or you’ll be standing there confused for some time as drone-like servers buzz about completey oblivious to actual customers. It’s not their fault, my hunch is they’re young, ill trained and ill-equipped to handle large swaths of tourists. The hostess stand has a line of folks equally confused as to where to actually check in. A restaurant with five entrances is probably not where I need to be. With difficulty as to my reservation, I wander off to a chair in the seating area and pick up a beautiful cookbook. Odd. Cookbooks sitting on all the tables, all different and equally beautiful. Apparently to enhance the wine “theme.” But no one is looking at them. Just their phones and their groups and their selfies. I’m confused, are we suposed to be paying attention to the wine here? This isn’t what Napa feels like.