Singing Hathorne’s Praises

By / Photography By | May 21, 2019
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Owner John Stephenson, left and Chef Joey Molteni

Food and community are renewed in an old fellowship hall on Charlotte Pike.

The recent addition to Charlotte Pike already has some good karma going for it. Located in the former fellowship hall of West Nashville United Methodist Church, built in 1889 (the church is now the neighboring events space, Clementine, which still does Sunday services), the space is beautiful and airy with original windows, pews and charm. But what truly sets Hathorne apart are the guys behind it all - owner John Stephenson and chef Joey Molteni.

Named after his grandmother, Mary Ruth Hathorne, chef/owner John Stephenson bought the old hall with a distinct mission and vision in mind. “When I saw the building, it just kind of spoke to me. I love the windows and I love the light.” With the utilization of the Richland Park Farmers Market just a stone’s throw away, the menu contributes to John’s goal of “creating a restaurant that is really a part of its neighborhood." Born from shared experiences of food and family, it is the driving force behind Hathorne’s family-style dining concept that encourages guests to order things for the table and dig in. Both in items and in style, Hathorne is about inclusion. Novices and “Foodies” alike can easily find items to gush about (do make note- the warm Napa cabbage with blue cheese and whole branzino are serious home runs).

Chef Joey Molteni is a people’s chef. And he believes the dining experience should be more visceral. “[Hathorne] makes me feel like I’m a little kid on the holidays and I’m peeling potatoes or grinding a sausage or something and everybody is bustling around, and we’re all cooking, and when something gets done everybody sits down and grabs a bite. And then we’re right back to it. It’s an all-day, cooking, eating, sense of family feel. That’s the part I love.”

Joey brings this feeling to every aspect of Hathorne, challenging the conventional idea of dining that consists of designated course after course before wandering out into the night or home to your slippers and television set. Once a guest sits down to a table, Joey chooses to provide them with a meal, rather than courses. Food is ordered, the mood is surveyed, and the experience begins through a conversation- a “huddle”, if you will- between the server and Chef. On a time-limit for a show? No worries. Catching up with friends? Stay awhile. The items are prepared and served at whatever pace is comfortable with each individual table; a level of genuine care in regard to the guest’s evening. Everything is done with intention.

Chef Joey will tell you that what fuels him is “seeing happy people eating.” Something tells us he’s about to get a lot of that.

Stephenson and Molteni's grand dining hall converted from church to restaurant

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